July 2nd 2007 Nyahuka
The sun is shining something fierce. Woo hoo. That means dry laundry minus that tasty mildew smell. After one ridiculous thing after another that seems to happen here in Uganda on a daily basis, Andrea and I have developed “Only in Africa…” - the running humorous commentary on things that transpire only here. The other day it was: only in Africa does your towel smell worse AFTER you wash it than before (due to aforementioned effect of cloud cover on drying factor of laundry). I was sitting in my room reading this morning, glanced down at the pair of shoes that I wore when we arrived and haven’t touched since…there’s a delightful little white mold growing in spots and patches in the beds of both. Fun times.
Much has gone on since last I wrote.
Riots at School
For several nights, teachers and their residences here at Christ’s School (where we live) were being stoned among other things. Students were in an uproar about the conditions here and during a day of cancelled classes, joint administration and student meetings, they threatened bloodshed if their demands weren’t met. Apparently rioting isn’t all that uncommon in schools here. The Nyahuka police (four guys and a couple guns) were gotten and a decision to close the school temporarily was relayed in an assembly. Students were given half an hour to get a few things and go home. In the meantime, the three of us were told to throw some stuff into a backpack and clear out to the mission just in case the scenario turned sinister. So we raced through the house, latched all our shutters, and were off. Curious feeling for me – the second time I’ve been at a boarding school in Africa contemplating evacuation?!* What are the odds? Thanks to the Lord all went peacefully. A week the later students were heralded back to the school class by class on different days, along with their parents to discuss and sign a code of conduct regarding such issues. I think some of the ringleaders are also facing expulsion. It’s a real opportunity for the school to set a precedent and hopefully model some badly needed lessons on conflict resolution. People here really have no concept of democracy, or even talking something over. Since the person or people with the most power win, violence becomes the logical option and mob mentality takes over. We were all praying that the folly of the whole scenario would be shown for what it was although it wasn’t clear how things would go over. Many parents share the same mentality as students as they are uneducated, or unfamiliar with more democratic ideas, and don’t necessarily have the Lord shaping their view of dealing with people, or molding their notion of rights, privileges, good authority, and the value of discipline.
Scaling the Rwenzori Mountains

Two Saturdays ago a large portion of the team here in Nyahuka (joined by three interns and two missionaries from Fort Portal) embarked on quite the adventure across the Rwenzori Mountains to Fort Portal (east of Bundibugyo district). In the words of Michael Masso (water engineer) “it’s not a trek for the faint of heart.” For days we had had plenty of rain, which would make the scant trails perilously slippery. There were stretches of steep inclines. Thighs would ache, only the younger and fitter were advised to chance the trip. Okay, so I’m talking it up a bit, but really, it was some serious climbing. And had the rains persisted, it really would have been out of control. I think in the long run, the faster of the two groups made the trip in about 8 hours (one consisting of our combined breaks). We’d climbed about 9000 meters to the highest and down another 5000 or so. Not sure how many miles it was but it was INCREDIBLE. I’ve never scaled mountains like that before so it was unbelievable to think (when I was at the top) that I’d actually WALKED that far and high. The scenery was extraordinary! We went from tropical vegetation to a cooler rainforest type area, through a bamboo forest, and back into tropical vegetation on the other side. Only in Africa does a grandmother hefting a load of firewood pass you at a clip going up the mountain…
Fort Portal
The hike was the beginning of about a week away from Nyahuka. We spent two days in Fort Portal at a place called Nyakasura House doing the abbreviated version of the “sonship course” (a program that World Harvest came up with for its missionaries to learn how to live their lives out of the truth that they are children of God). It was brilliant, if not a tad overloading as we packed an enormous amount of material into a short amount of time and it really takes a chunk of mental and emotional space to process. Bonus: first hot shower in Uganda. The next evening we traveled to the home of the Fort Portal interns and stayed with them, getting a tour of the area and seeing Hope School where they were teaching. It’s amazing how different it is just over the mountains. Fort Portal is noticeably more westernized and civilized in general (civilized meaning more built up, more amenities, better transportation, paved roads even…) The people there are of the Toro tribe and relationships look a lot different. When we met one of Lindsay’s fellow teachers Innocent, he grabbed my hand delightedly and we proceeded to walk through the school hand in hand! Okee dokee. Here in Bundibugyo that would be scandalous. People would assume you’re sleeping together! One side note – people in this neck of the woods have nicknames called impakos. I think there are 12 in all. People will look at you and determine which one you are. While we were there, the unanimous vote for me was “Akiki” which means motherly! I wasn’t expecting that. What do you think?
Hello Equator!!

Mweya – Lions and tigers and bears, oh my!
At the crack of dawn the next morning fifteen of us packed into a Land Rover and Van and headed off to Queen Elizabeth National Park and Mweya Safari Lodge. The terrain quickly morphed from green tropical to relatively dry savannah. There were these wild cactus type trees all over the place…very cool. When we arrived, I wasn’t quite sure what to do with myself. It was a gorgeous hotel…spiffed out in every way. After a month in Bundibugyo, how do you make the shift? Which only makes me wonder what it’ll be like going back to the States in a few weeks.

A few of us went exploring while waiting for our rooms. There were wild wart hogs all over the place. They’re hilarious! When they eat, they get down on their front knees to do it, and when they trot, their long skinny tails stick straight up in the air with a little poof of hair at the end. Their bottoms are the perkiest things ever! After unpacking, eating a lunch like I hadn’t eaten in a month, AND MY FIRST PHONE CALL FROM MUM AND DAD, we went on this boat ride down in the channel that the lodge overlooked. We wound our way down the shoreline and I gaped wide-eyed at hippos, cape buffalo, water buck, kob, a gazillion types of unbelievable birds and plenty more. I’ve never seen any of that stuff in its natural habitat, at such close proximity. It was totally surreal. Magnificent really. We passed a fishing village just when all the hollowed out canoes were fanning out across the channel for the evening. A massive flock of white birds soared into the air across the paling sky through sun beams glistening off the water. I thought I must be in some dream. We went on several game drives. Perched on the top rack of a vehicle in the morning as the fog is lifting and the sun rising behind a herd of elephants is just about as good as it gets in my opinion. One morning we passed a gallant lion strolling about next to our car, barely glancing over at us. I doubt he could have been more than 10 yards off from the car. The elephants were my favorite, especially the babies…they’re just so big and graceful and gentle looking, munching on shrubbery and ambling along. Several even trumpeted for us (not a good sign, but we got out of there quick enough when they were annoyed). We saw baboons, antelope, monkeys, loads more wart hogs (their babies are totally cute as well), a lioness lounging on a rock, and all the other animals we’d seen by the water. Being there brought back a million memories of being a child and traveling the world over with my family. I wished my dad had been there to share it, I know he would have loved the animals. It was kind of bittersweet thinking that yesterday is gone, and my family is separated all over the place, Jon in NYC, my parents in Romania, and losing several grandparents and my aunt recently, while I’m still finding my place in the world. Maybe we never really do find our place here, but I sure felt at home as a kid. A good but hard reminder that I’m just passing through and this isn’t my permanent home.








Most animal photos complements of Josh Dickenson (kind lender of photos when my camera memory was full!)
July 4th 2007
Back to Bundibugyo
After two days of delighting in the sights, sounds, smells, and tastes of Mweya, we crammed back into our vehicles, stopped briefly in Fort Portal to restock on the essentials that are impossible to get in Nyahuka (ie. Nutella chocolate spread, cookies, and Pringles), and were off back over the mountains to our home in the valley beyond. The only way to describe the trip is five hours of bone jarring ricocheting off the rocky dirt roads in a tin can, with a 75 degree decline directly beyond my edge of the vehicle with several thousand feet worth of plummeting fall to the bottom. It made for a view of the terraced mountainsides that was one of a kind. As we drove back down our side of the mountains through the forest at the top we passed trees full of black and white colobus monkeys that eyed us curiously. When we finally got back I was coated with a thick layer of sweat, sunscreen, and road dust and had to sit still at our kitchen table so that every particle in my body that had been jiggled out of position could resettle. Let’s just say Dramamine saved the day…
I love these majestic mountains that remind me every moment that there are things bigger than myself in life. That there is a colossal and creative God that is sovereign over all the curious things under the sun that make no sense to me. That there is One who searches and knows me, down to every detail…and weaves things together into meaning and purpose in a world where sometimes its so tempting for me to believe that there is none. I was reading the other day – Psalm 113 – and was happy to be once again reminded that God is huge, but God is also near and knowable.
“The LORD is high above all nations, and his glory above the heavens! Who is like the LORD our God, who is seated on high, who looks far down on the heavens and the earth? He raises the poor from the dust and lifts the needy from the ash heap, to make them sit with princes, with the princes of his people. He gives the barren woman a home, making her the joyous mother of children. Praise the LORD!”
‘Home’ Again
That night we slept like we might not have slept since we arrived. It felt good to be back in our little apartment, even familiar! We were thrilled to bathe under our cold, gravity fed shower, happy to find our “omo” washed clothes, happy to tumble into beds we have come to trust and know in our mosquito nets. I think it’s kind of like people and bathrooms. You always prefer using your own toilet than someone else’s or some random public bathroom. Because you know your toilet. You know what to expect. You know who’s bound to interrupt you on it, you know who else has been on it before you, it’s familiar, safe. But a public toilet might be dirty, it might smell funny, you might not realize the seat is broken before you sit on it (that is if you even dare to), etc. But to think that this house and place that was so uncomfortable and unfamiliar to us a month ago, now feels like home – that is totally exciting! The next morning we woke up deliciously well rested. Andrea and I went off to the market to get some fruits and veggies. I was happy to greet a smiling Rose (one of our usual veggie stops) who actually knew me. I UNDERSTOOD the women when they told me how much the things I wanted cost!!! I could navigate my way round the market, knowing where I might find mangoes, or plantains, or passion fruit. I also ran into a pastor friend Daniel, and was able to greet him and have a conversation. On our way back we bumped into “Monday,” otherwise known as the Ugandan “Jack Sparrow.” He’s the jolly eccentric fellow that’s quite smart, but suffers from what we think must be bipolar tendencies. He always stops to greet us in English with a smile from ear to ear. He’s got all sorts of colored fabrics and ribbons wrapped round his head and usually carries a ponga (big machete like thing) or a spear that has all sorts of ribbons and assorted streamers “just just” (meaning just for show, not to use for any particular thing). Both of us came back feeling thoroughly accomplished and affirmed thinking “oh my goodness, I could totally live here!?*
So What Do I Think?
It’s hard to know how to think about the incredible disparity between this place and Philadelphia. I come from a totally educated background. Here most people are lucky to read and write, let alone finish school or do well enough to amount to anything (according to our Western notions). In the States I have money, house, car, food…here people live in mud huts, have some plates and bowls, a handful of pieces of ragged clothing, a foam mat, some kitengis (rectangular cuts of fabric about the size of the face of a single bed), and what else? When we were in Mweya at the safari lodge I wondered what the Ugandan waiters and bell boys and pool attendants think when they serve these “rich” white people who come and require such luxuries and pampering, who want hot water in their rooms, a pool to swim in, and omelletes to order at the breakfast buffet? Certainly I am providing them with much needed employment…but how could one ever understand or reconcile how we live as we do in the United States when the majority of this continent has so little?
What does it mean that people here live in mud huts that have rats and cockroaches? What does it mean that the substance of most people’s lives here in Bundibugyo consist of growing food, preparing it, hauling water and firewood, washing clothing, and sleeping and eating? What does it mean that babies sit in the mud of their front stoop batting around in the dust and goat droppings and bits of trash that they find there? What does it mean that a man who lost his wife two days ago brings an infant to the nutrition center yesterday, a baby so small and sickly that it looked like a scrawny, bony chicken with a thin veil of flesh stretched across its folded body, wailing as he awkwardly tried to fill its mother’s place in consoling it? What have we in common, if anything? How do we connect? Even comparing the child growth standards here with those in the West presents me with a problem. The above average growth curve here in Uganda is the minimum growth curve for weight in the States. Our very presence here shows the Ugandans what they don’t have. What does it mean that we should come and start a secondary school for Ugandan students but bring teachers here from the United States to educate our primary school children in our own mission school instead of sending them to one of the local primary schools? What does it mean that our children have meat for dinner, while local kids run about with distended stomachs from malnutrition? What does it mean that when a missionary raises money arduously for him and his family to come here as a water engineer, giving up basic amenities and standard of living, family, education, etc., in order to pipe clean water from the falls for the district, that the locals think he’s being paid to do this and is stealing jobs and income from nationals, and even worse, that he is making a profit off of this land and this country? What does it mean when a child comes to your door asking for bread or water when you know that they have somewhere to get water and probably aren’t starving, but obviously don’t have apples from Fort Portal or dinosaur shaped multivitamins, or a parent who is investing time and effort into his early childhood development? What does it mean when students at the school riot for more meat in their diet, or more opportunities to see the nurse, or more electricity so that they can have lights that last the duration of their evening prep period, or to even have lights in their dormitories?
And then, the major question: What is my responsibility here? What is my responsibility having been born in a country that has wealth and money, into a family that is loving, into a cultural context where education is valued and available? Could I go back to my safe and comfortable America and live the way we live because that’s just the way things are? And if not, then how am I supposed to live? And will the way I choose to live make a difference? And does it matter if a difference is made so long as I live the way I think I should? O LORD, have mercy, give wisdom.
July 4th 2007
Independence Day
Only in Africa….did Andrea and I whistle our national anthem to a class full of S2 students
(roughly 10th grade equivalent).
As always, we make the most of every celebration here in Uganda. Tonight the team congregated at the Myhre’s (team leaders) to commemorate freedom. The kids all got those glow in the dark sticks that you can loop into bracelets that you sometimes get at ball games or concerts (thanks to some thoughtful soul who sent a package for just such an occasion.) Bruce Springstein was projected through their rigged up, solar powered sound system. Everyone on the team brought over offerings: prized jars and containers of sundae toppings saved up for the perfect moment. We belted the national anthem out at the top of our lungs. And complements of DMC (the Myhre’s cow, Dairy Milk Chocolate) we had home made ice cream!!! Lest you underestimate what a treat this is, let me just explain that the closest thing you can get to ice cream/goodies in Nyahuka is sugar, long-life boxed milk, or fruit drop candies that are basically sugar, gelatin and some color (I’m guessing that’s why they warrant a ‘fruit’ designation). It was divine.
July 5th 2007
Love – ie. Love your neighbor as yourSELF
It occurred to me again several weeks ago that I don’t really care about other people. My whole life is tailored to meeting my needs and fulfilling my desires and purposes. It’s not like I wake up in the morning thinking about what anyone else should do, I think about what I’m going to do. I go to school so that I can be a learned person and get a decent job and earn enough to support myself and be comfortable and happy, to contribute to society and have achieved something in life. I work so that I have money for the things I need, to clothe myself, to feed myself, to enjoy myself. I determine what I should do with my time by how I feel and what I think is fitting. Do I want to sleep, do I want to watch TV, do I want to hang out with friends? When you get to the bottom of things, everything I do amounts to what I assess will be good for ME, or right for ME, or supportive for ME. I think: I’m responsible for me. And you’re responsible for you. The notion that I might be responsible for you (unless you’re my child, my aging parent, or part of my job description) is about as foreign as the soil I’m standing on. Love YOU the way I love MYSELF?!* What on earth?
Thankfully, a number of things have surfaced recently to give me pause to consider this.
1. In team prayer yesterday morning, Kim read a snippet from John Piper’s “What Jesus Demands From The World,” about the second commandment to love your neighbor as yourself:
“The second commandment seems to me to be an overwhelming commandment. It seems to demand that I tear the skin off my body and wrap it around another person so that I feel that I am that other person; and all the longings that I have for my own safety and health and success and happiness I now feel for that other person as though he were me. It is an absolutely staggering commandment. If this is what it means, then something unbelievably powerful and earthshaking and reconstructing and overturning and upending will have to happen in our souls. Something supernatural. Something well beyond what self-preserving, self-enhancing, self-exalting, self-esteeming, self-advancing, fallen human beings like me can do on their own.”
2. Tuesday night we celebrated Pamela’s birthday with cake, balloons, gifts, and a game of catch phrase. As we neared the end, we were trying to decide how much longer we’d play. My initial thought was one more round so that one team would win fair and square. Pamela, on the other hand, said she wanted one more round so that both teams could tie and end on the same foot. How odd, I thought. I was thinking about our team winning, and she was thinking about everyone winning.
3. In Bible study the other day we read a quote from J.I. Packer on the meaning of Jesus becoming a man and living here on earth:
“(The incarnation) meant a laying aside of glory; a voluntary restraint of power; an acceptance of hardship, isolation, ill-treatment, malice and misunderstanding; finally, a death…The “Christmas spirit”…should mean the reproducing in human lives of the temper of him who for our sakes became poor…(It) does not shine out in the…snob who leaves the sub-middle-class sections of the community to get on by themselves. The Christmas spirit is (rather) that of those who, like their Master, live their whole lives on the principle of making themselves poor – spending and being spent – to do good to others – and not just their own friends.”
Interesting.
4. All of this reminded me of Romans 5:6-8 and Luke 6:27,28,32-35
“For while we were still weak, at the right time Christ died for the ungodly. For one will scarcely die for a righteous person – though perhaps for a good person one would dare even to die – but God shows his love for us in that while we were still sinners, Christ died for us.”
“But I say to you who hear, Love your enemies, do good to those who hate you, bless those who curse you, pray for those who abuse you…If you love those who love you, what benefit is that to you? For even sinners love those who love them. And if you do good to those who do good to you, what benefit is that to you? For even sinners do the same. And if you lend to those from whom you expect to receive, what credit is that to you? Even sinners lend to sinners, to get back the same amount. But love your enemies, and do good, and lend, expecting nothing in return, and your reward will be great, and you will be sons of the Most High, for He is kind to the ungrateful and the evil.”
It’s one thing to do things because you’re personally motivated to do them: because it benefits you in some way, whether directly as in buying a shirt because you like it and it fits you and you can wear it, or indirectly, like giving someone a gift because you know they’ll appreciate it and thank you and be happy and that will bring you personal satisfaction. It’s quite another thing to do something when it’s not going to benefit you in any way. Imagine working and not being compensated for the time and effort. Imagine spending your hard-earned buck to buy someone a gift that they didn’t seemed enthused about in the slightest, that they didn’t thank you for, and that they set aside to move onto something more interesting.
Okay, translate that from friends or family to acquaintances, or people you don’t know, or worse, people you dislike or who are all-out enemies? It’s one thing to spend time doing laundry for your family. What about doing laundry for the homeless person that sleeps around the corner from your apartment? Or putting quarters in the dryer to dry some random person’s laundry that’s sitting in the wash machine you want to use at the Laundromat? Or what about doing laundry for the jerk who cut you off in traffic, or the guy who swindled your elderly mother out of her life savings, or the doctor who refused your dying child healthcare because you didn’t have insurance? Do I love these people the way I love myself?!* Do I even bother to spend my mental or emotional energy considering them or the fact that they might need something, or that I might actually be responsible for contributing to their lives and growth?
For me it’s as simple as ‘do I care that my roommate isn’t feeling well today?’ Is it a passing thought, or do I stop to pray for her? Do I ask her what I can do for her? Do I think about how I might feel if I were her and what would make me feel better? Do I choose to spend time making her some chicken soup instead of reading my book or taking my nap after I convey my condolences to her with a “sorry” (however heart-felt it might have been)? Do I stop in to check on her later in the day when I’ve been distracted by other things I need or want to do? I’m so grateful to be in a place and time where I’m able to ask the questions, where my context and my said beliefs force me to. Please pray for me. The tricky thing about finding life is the dying part…
Matthew 10:39 “Whoever finds his life will lose it, and whoever loses his life for my sake will find it.”
July 8th 2007
Opposition
There are a million reasons why living in a place like this is difficult. Lack of modern conveniences and amenities, the cultural and linguistic barriers, being far from home, family, and the familiar, etc. One thing not always accounted for is the spiritual opposition that presents itself when you determine to share and spread the kingdom of God. For whatever reason, the reality of the spiritual realm never seems as obvious to me when I’m in the States. But in my experience overseas, that has not always been the case. Not long after we arrived, Andrea had a horrible nightmare, followed by an experience of a few things that can only be accounted for supernaturally. It freaked her out, and it freaked us out. Not long after that, Lydia also had a similar experience. And a couple nights ago, it was my turn for Satan to visit (as Andrea had said half serious and half in jest the next day.) It’s hard to describe the terror it inspires in the middle of the night, in the dark, perhaps when we are most vulnerable…tired and needing rest, in our bed that is supposed to be safe and comfortable. We pray together about these things, our lives, our work and our day every night before we go to sleep. Lest we forget about what we are really involved with, what we are really doing, and what is at stake, I think the Lord has been gracious to give each of us a small glimpse to keep us sharp, to drive us to pray, to propel us to root ourselves more strongly in His word, and to bolster our dependence upon and trust in Him. And though I’d rather not have to go through it, I’m glad that He is not content to have me deceived into apathy, lazy or fickle about my faith or the way I live my life. The great deception in life would be to think that it is nothing more than a stroll through 80 some years in a body, having random interactions with other bodies, and amounting to little else when all is said and done. The great deception is to live as if there is no God, as if He has no purpose or were not doing anything, as if there were nothing at stake, and as if our thoughts, words or actions didn’t mean anything, as if we could do whatever we wanted… “I just want to be happy…don’t bother me with something I have to think about, that rocks the boat, that might require something of me.” It reminds me of the film, the Matrix. Life isn’t what you think it is. Do you want to find out what it is, or would you rather carry on, ignore the signs, and live as if this was it? There really is a war on. Epic proportions. And things are dire. One look around at injustice, violence, poverty, suffering, broken relationships, etc. confirms it. But there is one who has conquered, who brings news of a new thing, who is doing a new thing here, now. He’s the One I want to stand with and fight for when I’m in my right mind. Pray we’d live in light of reality, both me and you.
Psalm 91is in the process of being memorized:
He who dwells in the shelter of the Most High will abide in the shadow of the Almighty.
I will say to the LORD, “My refuge and my fortress, my God in whom I trust.”
For He will deliver you from the snare of the fowler and from the deadly pestilence.
He will cover you with his pinions, and under His wings you will find refuge;
His faithfulness is a shield and buckler.
You will not fear the terror of the night, nor the arrow that flies by day,
Nor the pestilence that stalks in darkness, nor the destruction that wastes at noonday.
A thousand may fall at your side, ten thousand at your right hand, but it will not come near you.
You will only look with your eyes and see the recompense of the wicked.
Because you have made the LORD your dwelling place – the Most High, who is my refuge – no evil shall be allowed to befall you, no plague come near your tent.
For He will command His angels concerning you to guard you in all your ways.
On their hands they will bear you up, lest you strike your foot against a stone.
You will tread on the lion and the adder,
the young lion and the serpent you will trample underfoot.
“Because he holds fast to me in love, I will deliver him; I will protect him because he knows my name. When he calls to me, I will answer him; I will be with him in trouble; I will rescue him and honor him and show him my salvation.”